"n'derr a la lanz" market
Bari: Following Saint Nicholas and the Scent of the Sea
BRIEF DESCRIPTION
"N’derr alla lanz" is a charismatic place in the city of Bari, its name rooted in the local dialect. Here, fishermen used to arrive with their wooden boats called "lanz." They would dock these boats and sell their fresh catches directly from the pier, providing customers with the experience of purchasing seafood "n’derr a la lanz," right at the boat’s edge.
Today, this spot remains a bustling center of activity. Fishermen continue to sell their daily hauls while locals and visitors alike enjoy beer and card games. "El Chiringuito," a local landmark since 1950, offers both fresh fish and beer, solidifying its status as a beloved institution in the city. Saturday mornings in Bari are particularly enchanting, filled with the aroma of fresh fish and beer, lively market sounds, and the clatter of cards, creating an authentic and vibrant atmosphere.
WHAT WE LOVE ABOUT THIS PLACE
In the vibrant tradition of Bari, Saint Nicholas is revered as the ultimate miracle worker, sought after by believers worldwide. During the feast of the city's patron saint, an unusual banner appears at the "n'derr a la lanz" fish market: it asks Saint Nicholas to protect worshippers from "le rizz vacand," empty sea urchins deemed unlucky for locals who love their orange eggs. It's crucial to note that, whether empty or full, sea urchins cannot be harvested in Apulian waters for at least three years to allow their colonies to replenish.
Some pray to Saint Nicholas for the miracle of multiplying the few remaining sea urchins in local seas, while others interpret the plea as a call to safeguard humanity from empty-headedness, much like the eggless sea urchins. Yet, even for Saint Nicholas, this miracle may prove too challenging.
THIS PLACE IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE
The San Nicola pier, situated between the Sant'Antonio pier, Teatro Margherita, and Circolo Canottieri Barion, remains one of the few direct accesses to the sea in Bari. Beloved and frequented by locals, it is a lively and authentic spot where one can enjoy fresh fish and sea urchins right in the heart of the city. This unique location offers an unforgettable experience, allowing visitors to connect with the sea and savor local delicacies in a dynamic and picturesque setting.
SPECIAL TIPS
Even today, you can witness the nighttime fishermen, called "varcheceddàre," who use lamps to catch octopus and "ciambotto" in the coastal waters. Walking along the pier, you might encounter fishermen offering fresh octopus. Along the wooden walkway, fishermen sell the day's catch, giving you the opportunity to taste the sea's delights directly from the hands of the experts.
