Bari : following San Nicola and the scent of the sea
Welcome to Bari, a city that enchants the senses with its rich historical heritage and natural wonders. Whether you are here for the first time or the hundredth, you can never get enough of its enveloping scent, charming corners, irresistible delicacies, and St Nicholas, the city’s patron saint, who reigns supreme in the hearts and minds of its inhabitants.
Let yourself be guided and discover some of Bari’s lesser-known corners, infused with its deep spirit.
What to eat
In Bari, in addition to the iconic ‘crudo di mare’ (raw seafood) and typical Apulian dishes such as orecchiette, focaccia, taralli, and friselle, there are some lesser-known but equally delicious delicacies to sample:
- Wild Turnip Tops: Wild turnip greens, or ‘wild broccoletti’, are a bitter salad typical of the region. They are often used in the preparation of the famous ‘pasta with turnip greens’, a traditional and tasty dish not to be missed.
- “Panzerotto”: The panzerotto is a small fried calzone, filled with a soft and tasty heart of tomato, mozzarella, and sometimes ham and cheese, but not only. Its crispy, golden crust hides a succulent filling, which melts in your mouth, giving you an explosion of Mediterranean flavors. The panzerotto is a symbol of conviviality and authenticity, ideal to be enjoyed hot and freshly fried, perhaps accompanied by a cool beer or a glass of local wine.
- Horse “‘Brasciòle”: Prepared with care and tradition, horse meat rolls are stuffed with garlic, lard, parsley, pecorino cheese, and pepper, then slow-cooked in tomato sauce until irresistibly soft. The resulting succulent sauce then becomes the perfect companion to the typical Bari orecchiette pasta, creating a unique and unforgettable combination of flavors.
- Castagnelle: Despite their name, they have nothing to do with chestnuts; rather, they are small sweet biscuits typical of the Christmas period, made with flour, toasted and ground almonds, and bitter cocoa. Cut into chessboards and baked briefly in the oven, they become fragrant and irresistible.
- Purciduzzi: These are traditional Christmas sweets from Bari, similar to biscuits, prepared with a dough of flour, sugar, almonds, and lard, flavored with lemon peel and vino cotto. They are a delicacy to be enjoyed during the Christmas festivities.
Local customs, tradition and festivities
In Bari, the cult of St Nicholas is a deeply rooted tradition, celebrated with two major festivals a year.
6 December, the day of his death, is an event not only felt by locals but also by Orthodox believers from all over Europe. During this feast day, unmarried women performed an ancient ritual, circling a column in the crypt of the basilica to attract marriage. The ‘miraculous’ column is still there, albeit protected by a cage, where love wishes can be caught between its cracks.
But it is in May that Bari explodes into a spectacular celebration for the translation of St Nicholas’ remains. It starts on 7 May with a sumptuous historical procession from Piazza Federico II di Svevia to the basilica, followed by the religious liturgy that begins at first light. The procession, with the statue of St Nicholas aboard a boat, illuminates the streets with lights and colors, while the city is enlivened by music and dance performances. On 9 May, for the anniversary of the arrival of St Nicholas’ remains, the city is in turmoil with Holy Mass and the miraculous rite of the manna, where water is collected that is believed to flow directly from the saint’s bones. The streets are closed to traffic, so it is best to get around by public transport or accept the hospitality of a Bari friend!
